Ethnic Enclave Tour: While cruising around Los Angeles, I happened upon the district of Little Armenia. The enclave intrigued me, so I explored more and found a large, diverse Armenian culture in our midst.
3.3 million Armenians live within the boundaries of their country, while 7 million live in the diaspora. That means 1/3 of Armenians shape their culture from abroad.
The single most prominent feature of these enclaves are the many churches that have very specific types of architecture (the dome) and lavish art inside. I counted 53 Armenian churches in California and although all are Christian, their affiliations vary between Protestant and Catholic sects.
Christianity is likely the most important cultural glue of the Armenians for two reasons. First, according to the Bible, Mount Ararat is where Noah’s Ark rested after the flood waters receded and Ararat is the center of historic Armenia. Second, Armenia was the first country to adopt Christianity in 301 A.D.
Here, my mission is to provide a small tour of the Armenian enclaves that I found within California.
Little Armenia in Los Angeles
Little Armenia is perhaps fittingly in the Hollywood district of Los Angeles and its website sells Kim Kardashian gear, likely the most famous Armenian in America. Armenian businesses have clustered in this area since around the early 1970′s. The Department of Public Works recognized the enclave on September 29, 2000 when it officially designated the area “Little Armenia.”
The center of this district is the St. Garabed Armenian Apostolic Church, an architecturally impressive structure with beautiful stained glass and built in 1978. Across the street, the Rose and Alex Pilibos Armenian School was founded in 1969 and teaches the Armenian language, history and religion alongside English-speaking classes.
Everywhere within Armenian enclaves, you’ll notice their unique script. Armenian has its own alphabet with close associations to the Balkan languages. The oldest surviving text in the Armenian language is a 5th century Bible translation–evidence that the written language is very old.
In Little Armenia, you’ll hear residents speak the language along the sidewalks. Also, visitors are welcome to shop at the Armenian markets or have a bite at the Armenian restaurants. The district interestingly blends into Thai Town, which has the largest community of Thai who live outside of Thailand.
The Glendale Armenians
The largest population of Armenians currently reside in Glendale, where vast stretches of Armenian shops cluster close to their churches. The St. Mary’s Armenian Apostolic Church is mammoth with beautiful art inside. The church was established in 1975 and boasts two khachkars (Cross Rocks) made of touf stone imported from Armenia.
A few blocks from here, you can visit the Glendale Armenian Church of the Nazarene with a market and restaurant across the street. There is also the St. Peter Armenian Apostolic Church, which emphasizes youth programs.
The Fresno Armenians
While Glendale is an active Armenian enclave, the Armenians in Fresno have a longer and, I might even argue richer, diaspora history. The Armenian community here dates back to the late 1800′s when they became raisin growers within the Central Valley. They were farmers, but also contributed to the entire economy of the region. A discerning eye will also notice that Fresno is peppered with commemorations and trinkets of local Armenian-American author, William Saroyan, the first American playwright to win both the Pulitzer Prize and the Drama Critics Circle Award in the same year for “The Time of Your Life” (1940).
The Fresno County Public Library houses the largest collection of Saroyan works, although you have to ask the librarians to get what you’re looking for because there’s no exhibition space dedicated to him specifically. The William Saroyan Society also has a wonderful website, but the address leads to a suburban house with no specific museum to visit.
What you can do is eat the way William Saroyan did. Valley Lahvosh Bakery advertises fresh Peda bread and crackers. One block away, the Hye Quality Bakery sells exotic food such as “Cocktail Lahmajoon.” Close to these bakeries is the Holy Trinity Armenian Apostolic Church originally built in 1900 and was the first Armenian Apostolic Church in California. The church is listed as a historic site.
A few miles away, the Pilgrim Armenian Congregational Church is a church shaped like Noah’s ark. It also has a wonderful plaque that explains why the Armenians are divided into so many diverse Christian sects. A split happened in the early part of the 19th century when the Peshtimaljian Seminary opened in Istanbul, Turkey, with the objective of creating reform within the church. At that time American Congregational missionaries arrived in Istanbul and they were welcomed by the Armenian Patriarch. The Patriarch, however, soon changed his mind and drove out the missionaries. Thereafter, any reform minded believers were persecuted. But the persecuted found a way to start a church of their own and this was the beginning of the Armenian Evangelical Church, which began in 1846 in Istanbul, Turkey.
Right next door to Pilgrim is the St. Paul Apostolic Church and a few blocks away is the First Armenian Presbyterian Church . Clearly, Armenian religious affiliations have split even further since then, but their signature architecture of the “dome” still remains, regardless of denomination.
Fresno Armenians also have their own Ararat Cemetery (1925 W. Belmont Ave.). Here, you can also find the tombstone of William Saroyan.
“David of Sassoon is the legendary folk-hero of the Armenians who rid their land of foreign conquerors single-handedly. It is an epic based on historical events dating back to the seventh century A.D. Troubadours, poets and sculptors have immortalized him for it gives eloquent expression to man’s undying love of freedom and justice for all. This statue, by Varaz Samuelian of Fresno, represents a thousand Davids in a thousand lands where throughout all of history man has sought to sustain his freedom against overwhelming odds.
The base of which the statue stands has been designed to tell the story of the Armenian lands and people. It depicts their alphabet, their churches, their art and culture, and their history which dates back to 782 B.C. when the capitol city of Yerevan was founded.
This gift from the Armenians to the county of Frenso is made with their profound gratitude to this land, which received them in their darkest hours, and provided them with the opportunity to be reborn.
David of Sassoon Association.”
The first genocide in the 20th century took place during WWI when the Armenians were slaughtered by the Ottoman Turks. The total number killed was estimated between 1-1.5 million Armenians. A wave of immigration led Armenians to settle, among other places, here in California. One of the khachkars at St. Mary’s Armenian Apostolic Church in Glendale also commemorates the genocide. Every year on April 24, protestors of the genocide gather in Little Armenia also.
William Saroyan had this to say:
“I should like to see any power of the world destroy this race, this small tribe of unimportant people, whose wars have ben fought and lost, whose structures have crumbled, literature is unread, music is unheard, and prayers are no more answered. Go ahead, destroy the race. Destroy Armenia. See if you can do it. Send them into the desert without bread or water. Burn their homes and churches. Then see if they will not laugh, sing and pray again. For when two of them meet anywhere in the world, see if they will not create a New Armenia.”